This satellite view says it, lots of hilly, craggy coastline dotted with houses and cute towns. We chose a commercial campground and we lucked out with Space #1, the only one with a view of the water. Later we saw that others just boondocked at a pull-off on some local back road next to the water; that’s allowed in Newfoundland. Maybe next time, we said.
At 2200 people, Twillingate was the hub of this area. Other villages dotted the landscape with a few houses, someone selling quilts and crafts (“It gets kind of boring up here in winter, so we find things to do,” said one of the locals), and maybe a chip truck. That’s not a tree clearing machine; that’s a trailer selling french fries.
At the front of the campground was a small trailer with an attached deck, another kind of a food truck concept. You would have to be a little crazy if you spent your days in that trailer, especially with what seemed to be almost no business. We declined to dine when we saw the menu board; everything came through the deep fryer. I asked the proprietor how she managed to stay open, here it was the end of August and places were closing down for the winter. She half groaned and half smiled, responding that hers was the only place open till 11PM, and the kids liked their late night poutine.
The hike to Spillars Cove was wonderful. Like places we’d seen in Scotland this trail took us right to the edge of cliffs over bays with gentle waves and seabirds. Since early July we’d been attracted to these places, the Fundy Trail, Meat Cove, and others, yet we wondered how this place on the North Coast of Newfoundland could be much different. Magically, it was.
