There is never enough time to do everything you learn about once you have visited a place. Our explorations from three days on the Isle of Skye brought us to places not written up in the guidebooks (and a few that were and that, despite the stream of people, were still fun to visit). As we were leaving Isle of Skye and moving on to Fort Williams, we realized that returning to Skye would require a bit more pre-trip research and planning, such that you could find the hike-in bothy for an overnight, or the self catering cottage far off on the coast, learn where to hire a bike or kayak and find the best local spot for coffee – all the elements of a longer, relaxing stay.
As we left for Fort William, we found an alternate route via the Glenelg-Skye Ferry (www.skyeferry.co.uk). A beautiful winding back road took us to the ferry landing and an amazing experience to watch the ferry come in on the strong current. It bashes its bumpers into the side of the loading ramp, and then the deck rotates to allow its load of about 4-6 cars to drive off. Wow.
Next, we stopped in for coffee at the small cafe at the Glenelg and Arnisdale Community Hall, which is owned and run by the community. There, in a heavy Scottish accent, a very friendly and boisterous woman told us another side of the story of how Glenelg is twinned with Glenelg, Mars, a site where the Rover travelled to and fro in 2012. (Glenelg is a palindrome, making the Rover’s to and fro even more special). Suffice it to say the event planned with NASA wasn’t quite what had been promoted, and the local Trust was out quite a bit of money.
Our next stop was to see a broch. No, not the jewelry piece your piano teacher wore. There are said to be 500+ brochs in Scotland, and today’s were two of the best preserved. They were extended family dwellings from the Iron Age two thousand years ago. Remarkably round and engineered with double walls, internal spiral stairs and multiple floors, these structures easily impressed a sense of time and history.
Next we just drove out on a tiny road in pursuit of a close-up with some Highland Cattle. They’re a bit elusive, but Milissa’s determination was stronger. So we found ourselves some hours later in a conversation with two fellows in a tiny seaside village, one of whom was the local manager of the estate. It’s complicated, but basically a very wealthy British family still owns most of the land nearby as it was passed down from the days of the Clearances, when wealthy Brits forced locals off the land to allow them to bring in more sheep in the mid 1800s. After a friendly conversation, the manager said we looked like trustable folks, so he allowed us to drive through his farm on a dirt road up into the Glen, where we might find the mighty cows.
A mile up to where we couldn’t drive anymore, Milissa was unfazed, and so we set off tromping through the bogs and fields in pursuit. Finally, we spotted some on the other side of the small river, but not close enough to capture on camera. So hurling big rocks into the stream and bravely venturing across brought us to a point where we could split up and herd them to a viewing point. They didn’t like us, but that didn’t keep the cattle from stopping for a pose and doing what they usually do (!). Success! And hours very well spent exploring parts of the Scottish coast we would otherwise have missed.
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